Geneva Watch Days: Key Trends

Skeletonised dials were favoured from many luxury brands, whilst many also looked to define what ‘normal’ meant in the world of horology as they stretched the boundaries with captivating designs. Explore these trends on Calibre today.

SKELETON WATCHES

For a watch novice, the term ‘skeleton’ might seem out of place within the world of horology. Trust us, skeleton watches are nothing to do with Halloween and everything to do with luxury. Simply, a ‘skeleton timepiece’ is a watch stripped of decoration that impairs the view of the mechanisms. Or, if you like, a watch taken back to its bare bones.

The timepieces are luxury at its finest: by flaunting their inner workings, luxury watch brands have the chance to reveal the incredible craftsmanship that goes into each movement. It’s also an opportunity for the wearer to sport a quite spectacular addition on the wrist.

It’s no surprise that a number of luxury brands revealed skeleton timepieces at Geneva Watch Days 2022 and we’re detailing our favourites below.

Jacob&Co.

Jacob&Co. have made it their continuous mission to produce captivating timepieces never seen before, and the newest generation of the EpicX collection is another step in their quest.

The original EpicX launched back in 2015 and was instrumental in propelling Jacob&Co. into the watchmaking world. Launching at Geneva Watch Days 2022 seven years later, the EpicX second generation has arrived and it has big shoes to fill. But by making the timepiece sleeker and more streamlined, Jacob&Co. has lived up to expectations (… and more).

The skeleton movement continues to take centre stage and is designed to reveal the Calibre JCAM45 – an integral part of the EpicX identity. It creates a half-dial, half-movement, and the structures are true to the Epic X's original calling to blur the lines between the inside and outside.

Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin have a knack of creating timepieces destined for those who dare to stand out. Their bold exhibition at Geneva Watch Days was in keeping with this reputation they’ve gained.

Ulysse Nardin have released the BLAST RAINBOW – a supercharged variation of the Blast Skeleton Tourbillon of Geneva Watch Days 2020 – inspired by the iridescent rainbow colours of silicium, with bezels adorned with purple, green, blue or ink gemstones, sparkling in the sunlight for a “rainbow” effect.

The skeleton “X” dial’s complex and geometric forms on this imposing 45mm timepiece takes centre stage. But to soften the look, a total of 50 rubies and sapphire baguette gemstones adorn the bezel and the indexes of this BLAST RAINBOW, making this timepiece sexy and powerful on any wrist. Put simply, this timepiece blow-ups traditional watch design.

Bulgari

To celebrate the lines 10th anniversary, Bulgari delighted audiences across the glove with the release of four new pieces in the Octo Finissimo collection. Naturally, our favourite, thanks to the skeletonised movement, is the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 days. Its new architectural manufacture movement plays on contrasts for perfect legibility offering an impressive 8-day power reserve. Signaling the return of gold to the forefront, the new Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days combines design and technology beautifully.

TIMEPIECES THAT PUSH THE BOUNDARIES

In this world, as our way of living continues to change year on year, ‘normal’ no longer exists in society. It certainly doesn’t in the world of horology.

Luxury watch brands continue to look for ways to move forward: whether that’s through colour ways, sizes, shapes or accuracy. And at Geneva Watch Days 2022, some of the world’s most prestigious watch brands continued this drive for resetting everything we know about ‘normal’ with timepieces. From vibrant displays of colour to expeditions into the world of cryptocurrency, Geneva Watch Days 2022 saw it all.

Jacob&Co.

‘Out of this world’ is often a phrase used to describe Jacob&Co. novelties. So, if any luxury brand were to venture into the world of cryptocurrency, it had to be the US-based watchmakers.

The Astronomia Solar Bitcoin is a symbolic and horological tribute to the world of cryptocurrency. Featuring a Jacob-cut diamond, a Jaocb-cut orange citrine and a rotating Earth, Jacob&Co. adds its own craft as a nod to the success of those who have mastered bitcoin. It’s limited to just 25 piece and is available to purchase in a cryptocurrency of the client’s choosing.

Oris

The very finest craftsmanship: but make it fun. Oris released the latest generation of ‘Cotton Candy’ models at Geneva Watch Days. A trio of timepieces in sky blue, wild green and lipstick pink dials – with Perlon straps to match – these creations are certainly a statement wear.

“Paired with the charming, naturally patinating bronze Divers Sixty-Five case, they bring warmth light and gentle hope”, Oris said as they unveiled the trio in Geneva. And in an unpredictable world, why not inject some joy into your wardrobe?

Bulgari

The Serpenti collection is home to some of the most iconic ladies watches ever created. But Bulgari hasn’t taken glory and settled. Not likely. Instead, the Italian luxury watchmakers continue to dazzle, inspire, and captivate audiences with each new release.

The latest Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillion, debuting at Geneva Watch Days, combines the art of Haute Joaillerie perfectly with Haute Horlogerie. For this model, Bulgari has treated the Serpenti icon to a contemporary black-tie look, and, importantly, a tiny tourbillon. Bulgari tailor-made a miniature calibre - designed to the nearest millimetre – and have housed it at 6 o’clock in the iconic snake-head case.

MB&F

MB&F have introduced two new Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVOs. It’s a timepiece that, quite literally, splits the escapement of the MB&F across the movement and is presented in two versions: the ‘Ti’ version, and the Beverley Hills edition reserved exclusively for the MB&F LABs.

The icy-cool ‘Ti’ edition – pictured above – comes in grade 5 titanium with an icy blue base plate and slate grey dial and opened counters that will make you shiver…in a good way.

Another feature is the special darkened treatment on the movement side, creating heightened contrast between the wheels, the rhodium-plated barrels and the rose gold details. MB&F is one of only a handful of artisanal brands that continue to finish components painstakingly by hand, making the view of the movement as mesmerizing as the dial.