Breguet, The Type XX & A Legendary Legacy of Watchmaking Excellence

At the heart of Breguet's legacy is Abraham-Louis Breguet, a Swiss-born watchmaker who settled in Paris and became the visionary behind numerous groundbreaking inventions. Breguet's ingenuity led to the creation of the tourbillon, an intricate mechanism that counters the effects of gravity on a watch's accuracy. His tourbillon remains a symbol of exceptional watchmaking craftsmanship and precision to this day. Breguet also introduced the self-winding watch, known as the "perpetuelle," and developed the Breguet over coil, a hairspring design that improved the accuracy and is still used in many high-quality mechanical watches. His contributions to watchmaking extended beyond mechanics to aesthetics, as he introduced designs characterized by simplicity, elegance, and timeless appeal.

Breguet quickly gained favour with European royalty and aristocracy. His clientele included Queen Marie-Antoinette, King Louis XVI, Napoleon Bonaparte, and Tsar Alexander I, among others. His watches and clocks were highly sought-after not only for their exceptional timekeeping capabilities but also for their artistic craftsmanship. The iconic Breguet features, such as Breguet hands, secret signatures, and coin-edge cases, became hallmarks of the brand's identity and remain cherished by collectors and enthusiasts. Breguet's timepieces embodied a blend of technical innovation and refined aesthetics, setting the standard for luxury watchmaking.

Breguet has maintained its commitment to innovation and precision throughout its history. The brand has continued to develop new movements and complications, showcasing its mastery in the art of horology. Breguet's Type XX and Marine collections, for instance, exemplify its ability to adapt traditional watchmaking techniques to contemporary designs and functionalities.

Acquired by the Swatch Group in 1999, Breguet has enjoyed access to modern manufacturing techniques and resources while preserving its heritage of craftsmanship and tradition. The brand's dedication to creating exceptional timepieces is evident in every watch it produces.

Breguet's history and heritage are a testament to the enduring excellence of Swiss watchmaking. From the visionary innovations of Abraham-Louis Breguet to the brand's continued dedication to precision and aesthetics, Breguet has left an indelible mark on the world of horology. Owning a Breguet timepiece is not just a luxury; it is a connection to centuries of watchmaking expertise, innovation, and elegance. The name Breguet is synonymous with the highest standards of craftsmanship and remains a symbol of timeless sophistication in the world of luxury watches.

2023 brings a new Type XX, new momentum, a new generation and an all-new calibre. Four years of preparation preceded the arrival of the new generation of iconic Type XX watches, this time, issued in two versions to meet all expectations: one militaryinspired and the other drawing on the finest civilian models. Taking cues from the emblematic first-generation models, Breguet has instilled a contemporary, dynamic and technological spirit into these watches.

According to the archives, things began in the early 1950s when the company, already a specialist in products dedicated to the aviation industry, learned that the French Air Force was looking to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch meeting the following technical specifications: a black dial with luminescent numerals, luminescent hands, a high-quality movement resistant to changes in pressure and acceleration, a rotating bezel and of course a “flyback” function, to mention but the most important. It was the Air Ministry that named the future product “Type XX”.

The second-generation Type XX arrived in 1971 and is recognisable by its enlarged polished steel case, thick lugs and black bezel. Available with or without a 12-hour totalizer, it continued to feature a 15-minute counter. Nearly 800 of these timepieces were sold, most of them to civilians; while on the military side, only 50 pieces were delivered to the Royal Moroccan Air Force. Orders were also placed by Aérospatiale (later Airbus Industries) and purchased by the Presidency of the French Republic as official gifts. The last ones were sold in 1986, spelling the (provisional) end of more than 30 years of a rich history. After a barely ten-year absence, Type XX enjoyed a revival in 1995 with the appearance of the third generation in the form of Reference 3800 “Aéronavale” (without date) and subsequently Reference 3820 “Transatlantique” (with date).

The new Type XX picks up the traditional aviation characteristics: black dial, rotating bezel, “flyback” function, now backed by the convenience of a self-winding movement. Aesthetically, it features a fluted caseband, a somewhat anachronistic legacy of the “historical Breguet” style. It proved successful and led to numerous interpretations, with a variety of precious metals and dial colour changes over the years. The line was enriched by an alarm watch and a Type XX for ladies, before the 2004 arrival of the Type XXI and the 2010 introduction of the impressive Type XXII incorporating high-frequency technology and silicon. Type XXI in turn welcomed many variations and some limited series, right the way through to the models unveiled in recent years.