JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS NEW VARIATIONS OF THE REVERSO TRIBUTE SMALL SECONDS AND THE REVERSO SECRET NECKLACE

A new ultra-thin case in pink gold

The pink gold Reverso Tribute case has been significantly revised for 2023, with its thickness reduced by almost 1mm to just 7.56mm to achieve the utmost sophistication and refinement.

Distinguished by a singular elegance, rectangular cases remain rare in watchmaking. Since the earliest days of mechanical timekeeping devices, round cases have been the norm – a convention that followed naturally from sundials being circular, watch hands moving “in the round” and, consequently, watch mechanisms being designed in circular form. When the idea of a swivelling case was conceived for the first Reverso in 1931, it had to be rectilinear in order to function. Moreover, because the profile of a rectangular case closely follows the natural curve of the wrist and is thus highly ergonomic, it was ideal for the polo players for whom the design was originally intended. Once the case design was established, Jaeger-LeCoultre took the rectangular principle further, creating shaped movements specifically for Reverso that closely follow the contours of its case.

The slide-and-swivel mechanism of the Reverso makes its case one of the most complex in watchmaking, which added to the challenge of reducing its thickness for the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds models. Comprising more than 50 components – of which almost 40 are dedicated to the swivelling mechanism – the cases are entirely produced and hand-assembled by a specialised team within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The elegance of simplicity – Reverso Tribute dials

The process of making the sunray dials is an intricate and delicate one. First, the dial base is galvanised to give a metallic sheen and protect the underlying brass from oxidation; next, a fine metal brush traces very fine, almost imperceptible lines on the surface in a sunray pattern that intersects at the precise centre of the dial. This is what gives the characteristic variation of hue when light falls on the dial from different angles. Finally, unless the dial is to be lacquered, the surface is varnished and polished to a smooth sheen that enhances the subtly textured sunray effect.

For coloured dials, lacquering is a complex craft that requires a high degree of skill. Up to four layers of coloured lacquer are applied to create the desired intensity and tone, followed by up to 20 layers of translucent lacquer, which adds visual depth and permanently fixes the colour. Every layer is applied by hand and each application must dry under ideal conditions of heat and humidity before the next can begin. Finally, the lacquer is varnished with a brilliant finish then polished by hand to mirror-like perfection, adding a sense of intensity and depth to the colour.

The new 2023 dials feature all the signature design elements of the Reverso Tribute, with the hours marked by applied indexes rather than numerals, and the 12 marked by a double index. Their faceted shape echoes the form of the Dauphine hands and adds visual depth to the dial surface. In the lower half of the dial, the circular track of the small seconds display provides a counterpoint to the linear geometry of the dial and case. Harmonising with the sunray brushing of the dial, a dramatic sunray pattern on the inside of the carrier is visible as the case is flipped over.

In keeping with Reverso tradition, the solid metal back of the reversible case is an ideal canvas for personalisation. The owner can choose to keep this personalisation hidden, as a private pleasure, or to turn the case over so that the back becomes the front of the timepiece.

Reconnecting Reverso to its sporting roots

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collaboration with Casa Fagliano has reconnected the Reverso to its roots in the world of polo, where Fagliano is celebrated for its fine handmade boots. A package of two straps is offered with each pink gold Reverso Tribute Small Seconds – made to Fagliano’s signature design in canvas-and-calf and all-calf, in colours that complement the new dials. Creating a unified aesthetic and strong sense of style that underlines the timeless modernity of the Reverso design, they are fitted with pin buckles that allow for swift and easy strap changes.

Calibre 822 – Epitomising Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy of product integrity

The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is powered by the manually wound mechanical movement, Calibre 822. With 108 components, this mechanically elegant and well-proven movement offers a power reserve of 42 hours. Like all Jaeger-LeCoultre calibres, its components are finely finished and decorated, even though they are hidden beneath the solid metal case-back.

Designed expressly for the Reverso, every element of Calibre 822 is produced and assembled within the Manufacture. In keeping with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy of product integrity, whereby the shape of a movement should be appropriate to that of its case – an approach established in the earliest years of the Manufacture – its architecture has been designed in a tonneau shape that closely follows the rectangular form of the Reverso case.

A new and gracefully feminine way to wear the time.

Underlining this commitment to feminine expressions of fine watchmaking, the Reverso – although originally conceived for the gentleman polo player – began to appear in feminine form very soon after its launch in 1931. Among the many variations were models that could be worn on a cordonnet bracelet or transformed into brooches, handbag clips or pendants. In 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre takes this creative legacy to a new level, presenting a new interpretation of the Reverso in the form of a magnificent piece of High Jewellery – the Reverso Secret Necklace.

The Reverso Secret Necklace transforms the design icon into a graceful and exquisitely feminine sautoir, or long necklace. The cordonnet, the original black textile bracelet (literal translation: fine or small cord) seen on Reverso models of the 1930s has been reimagined as a supple chain of intricate diamond-set links and polished onyx beads, from which a richly gem-set Reverso is suspended. Two pendants of polished onyx charms add a refined flourish to this elegant new way of wearing the time.

Among High Jewellery watches there is a long history of secret watches – watches with a gem-set cover hiding the dial until the wearer wishes to read the time. The swivelling case of the Reverso is a twist on this idea, concealing the time when turned over. Although initially designed for purely practical reasons, the blank metal flip side of the case offers almost limitless potential for decoration with gem-setting, enamelling or engraving.

Worn with the case back turned to the front, the Reverso Secret Necklace is a beautiful Art Deco-inspired jewel that conceals its secret power of time-telling until the wearer chooses to reveal it; worn with the front dial showing, it is an exquisite timepiece that hides its reverse side like an enchanting, personal pleasure. It is notable that while the dial appears to observers to be upside-down, it is set that way so that the wearer can read the time naturally as she lifts the watch to her line of sight.

A masterpiece of the jewellery arts

Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the very few watchmaking Maisons to have its own Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts) atelier, bringing multiple craft skills together in a specialised workshop within its Manufacture. This encourages close collaboration between the various artisans, a constant exchange of ideas and a shared creative energy.

Recalling the Art Deco origins of the Reverso, the reverse side of the pink gold case is set with white diamonds and black onyx in an intricate pattern of geometric repeats, contrasting with the warm tone of the metal. Vertical rows of grain-set diamonds wrap around the convex sides of the case and frame the dial. Contrasting with the richness of black onyx and pink gold, the centre of the dial is set with white diamonds, as are the signature brackets that define each corner of the dial. Each of the hundreds of tiny links that form the supple chain has been set with diamonds – a particularly demanding process as it requires great skill and dexterity to manipulate such tiny elements. The clasp of the necklace is formed of polished onyx, pink gold and diamonds and the triangular sections that attach the cordonnet to the top and bottom of the case are also decorated with diamonds set in pink gold on a background of black onyx. With over 3,000 diamonds, the gem-setting on the Reverso Secret Necklace requires over 300 hours of meticulous work for our Métiers Rares® atelier artisans.

Concealed within the case, the movement that powers the Reverso Secret Necklace is testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to mechanical excellence. Developed and produced entirely in house and comprising 93 parts, the manually wound Calibre 846 was created specifically for the

Reverso and, in keeping with the Manufacture’s philosophy of product integrity, is shaped to follow the contours of the rectangular case.

The Reverso Secret Necklace is an exquisite creation that represents a rare and noble marriage of high jewellery, rare handcrafts and fine watchmaking.