TAKING IT UP A LEVEL

Rolf, let’s start with the first thing we see: Oris has had a brand refresh. What’s the thinking?

Yes, it’s a joy to unveil the new Oris branding, which we’ve been working on for the past year. We’re really pleased with it because it captures who we are and what we do. We make beautiful mechanical watches designed to make people smile, which sounds simplistic sometimes, but in this crazy, unpredictable world, it’s a real privilege to be in that position. It’s a story of simplification, really. No strapline, no overwrought messaging: instead, it’s about strong, optimistic colours and typefaces, the integration of the Oris Bear, and a focus on what we do best, which is to be serious about watchmaking without being so serious about ourselves. Oris is a social, welcoming, conscious company, fiercely independent, bold in our choices – the primary colour in our branding is rose pink! – and we’re confident in our approach and attitude.

Yes, about that pink...

It’s fresh, it’s contemporary, it’s warm, it’s life-giving. And it’s also the colour of our historic home in Hölstein.

The year started with the release of the “Miss Piggy” and the Divers 60th Anniversary Edition. What impact have they had?

They made a lot of noise! Particularly the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition, which our customers had been calling for. The smaller case and hot pink dial are unmissable, and it’s given us a great platform from which to leap into this year. And we got a great reception to the 60th Anniversary Edition, which has such a lovely, familiar retro feel to it. No one’s pretending times aren’t tough, for the watch industry, too, so to see the smiles on people’s faces when we introduced these watches was very satisfying for us all.

And at Watches and Wonders Geneva, the return of the Big Crown Pointer Date. Again, lots of colour. What’s behind the new collection?

We talk a lot about the Big Crown Pointer Date and about how it’s been in constant production since 1938, because it’s significant. Oris wouldn’t be Oris without it. But there’s more to it, for me. We live in an era of constant upheaval, which is difficult for most of us. In uncertain times, it’s incredibly reassuring to know that some things do last. Fundamentally, that’s the promise of any mechanical watch, but for us, it’s most true of the Big Crown Pointer Date. The design is so simple, so timeless and so iconic, and we wanted to breathe fresh life into it and to give our customers access to it in a new way. The colour choices are all tied to the philosophy I’ve just talked about – they’re warm, inviting and joyful. How could you look at a yellow-dialled Big Crown Pointer Date and not smile? It’s that simple.

You mentioned “access in a new way”. What do you mean by that?

This new collection has 11 references. Some carry our Calibre 403, which comes with performance advantages – five days of power reserve, antimagnetic, 10-year service intervals and warranties – that are the product of years of in-house R&D. As you’d expect, these dictate a higher price point. But we also wanted to open up the collection, so we’re offering a version with Calibre 754, a high-quality movement that has fuelled Pointer Date watches for years and years, and a smaller 34.00 mm version, which is a new size. And if you want, there’s a diamond-set version of that, too. It’s a really well rounded collection, with lots of access points.

Who is this smaller version for?

I’m a big believer in making watches intentionally for women. Of course, anyone can wear the 34.00 mm, just as anyone can wear the 40.00 mm, but our aim was to introduce a version of our signature design that was more elegant, more jewel-like and that would appeal to women. It’s time this industry stopped wondering – women love mechanical watches, too!

Why use lab-grown diamonds?

It’s a contemporary, conflict-free way to approach the topic of diamonds, and part of our sustainability efforts. They make sense from an environmental and social point of view.

And tell us about the new bracelet...

We worked hard on perfecting the design and I think the effect of the brushed and polished H-links is the perfect expression of Oris’s easy personality. The clasp was a labour of love, too, and again, the result is so sleek and ergonomic and so generous to the touch. But I’m also really pleased with the effect it has on the watch, which becomes a multiactivity watch on a bracelet, sportier if you like, giving the Big Crown new areas of use. This is another thing our customers were asking for, and because we’re independent we could invest the time in perfecting a new design. And of course, you can still choose to wear it on a leather strap. Personally, I love the Cervo Volante sustainable deer leather strap version, but that’s just my preference.