Struthers Rebecca Struthers Special Edition Centenary Watch REBECCA STRUTHERS BESPOKE

In celebration of Watches of Switzerland’s centenary, we were commissioned to create a timepiece that celebrated British horological crafts.This project instantly appealed as collaboration has always been at the heart of our practise. We set about creating a watch that would be true to our values and atribute to the historic retailer/watchmaker collaborations that have created so many inspirational dial designs.During the golden age of British horology, watchmakers like us sat in the heart of a network of highly skilled engravers, enamellers, goldsmiths and toolmakers to name just a few. We decided to use this project as an opportunity to bring together a combination of firms, one of whom been practising their craft for over two-hundred years, and independent craftspeople of varying experience. Some have been practising their craft for decades but have only started working on watches withour support. For others, this is the first time they’ve ever contributed to the craft.We are proudly sharing the names of all those who have contributed to this project in the hope it continues to grow the network of allied crafts vital to the revival of artisanal watchmaking – now an endangered craft in the UK.We would like to thank Watches of Switzerland forusing their centenary as an opportunity for to showcase British making. 

We asked graphic designer, Tommy Morrison to create a bespoke set of lettering for ‘Watches of Switzerland’, based on the original G. & M. Lane lettering opposite, as well as to design the dial based on Craig’s concept artwork.Tommy developed the lettering by copying forms from the original dial, and then creating the missing letterforms. A process of enlarging and digitising was used to finalise the lettering that is on the dial and on the month and day wheels. This was the first dial that Tommy has worked on and the scale and complexity of the design meant a steep learning curve.

Dial fabrication and printing For the printing of the dial, we worked with historic precision dial maker Bedford Dials who have been in the trade since 1820.The silver dial which was formed and drilled in our workshops was sent to their printworks in Tenbury Wells.We then turned each of the eleven 18ct gold applied pipmarkers before finishing and fitted them by hand to the printed dial.

We cut a new moon phase wheel from steel using our customised 1970s East German 8mm Andrä & Zwingenberger lathe we named Helga. Crafting the wheels from steel created the perfect canvas for Wiltshire-based gun engraver Sam Faraway to work into. Although Sam has been in the trade for twenty-two years and served his apprenticeship at Holland & Holland, we’re the first watchmakers he has worked with.The process of inlaying 24ct gold in steel is traditionally applied to shotguns, but, less commonly in watchmaking due to the tiny scale of the components.

The case of this watch has been crafted from 18ct yellow gold case using traditional boxwood turning. The UK used to be the home of one of the most prolific watch case makers in the world, but at the time of writing, the craft has become an endangered skill with no full-time practitioners. The few of us left are a handful of watchmakers and restorers who incorporate case making in our work.

We were able to bring this rare skill in-house through a Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust (QEST) Scholarship,sponsored by Royal Warrant Holders Johnnie Walker, that allowed Craig to serve a brief apprenticeship with one of the last traditional case makers in Britain. The style of this case, in a 36mm diameter and with teardrop lugs, is inspired by watch designs from the 1940s and 50s. Our buckle is also handmade from 18ct gold and inspired by styles of the same era.

For this project we wanted to use a base calibre that would allow us to offer triple calendar and moon phase indication, and so, we turned to one of the most iconic movements of its kind.The Valjoux 90, developed in the 1940s, has been usedby historic marques such as Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. For our customisation we decided to incorporate a bespoke balance wheel and Breguet hairspring amongst aesthetic refinements to the plates and regulation.

The decoration is inspired by nineteenth-century Englishwatch engraving with its combination of frosted plates and stylised lettering. Acanthus scroll decorates the main plate beneath the balance and pallet cock in a further nod to historic English watch finishing.Traditional gun engravers have become one of our favourite artisans to collaborate with as experienced practitioners are equally skilled at lettering engraving asthey are decorative work. As with the moon phase wheel, the plates have been hand-engraved by Sam Faraway